Saturday, March 3, 2012

Ancient Arts on the way to Candidasa


The first weekend Gran and Papa Joe were here we whisked them off to the beach town of Candidasa (pronounced Chandy-dasa) on the east coast of Bali.  It is a popular destination only a couple of hours away from Ubud.

On the way we stopped at a small village known for making the traditional Balinese Gamelan musical instruments. We found an open workshop and showroom where a couple of craftsmen were in the middle of building a gamelan using hand tools.  It was impressive how with just simple tools and their own sense of pitch, they could fashion beautiful and intricate instruments.

the girls watching the craftsmen at work

demonstrating the bells.  the bells were made elsewhere

the master gamelan maker and his wife
                                             Tuning the bamboo Gamelan pipes with an ear and a handsaw

                                                           The gamelan maker's wife briefly demonstrates the metalaphone


                                                             Gamelan maker playing the bells




                                                           Dewa tries out the xylophone

We stopped next at the ancient capital of Klungkung.  Klungkung was accorded the most respect among the original Balinese kingdoms.  Its power ended in 1908 when the royal family and the other inhabitants of the palace walked out to meet the attacking Dutch troops, and performed a 'puputan', or ritual suicide, in view of the Dutch troops.    Much of the palace was destroyed, but the meeting halls that survived are famous for the painted murals on their ceilings.  The murals vividly portray the torments suffered by evil-doers in the nether world, as well as the rewards the more virtuous receive in heaven.  

First we visited the market located across from the palace in Klungkung, where Gran picked up some fabrics

Seamstress at work in the market


The grounds of the royal palace
another view of the grounds

the hot and hungry crew


mural covered ceiling




The guy in the bottom right is not enjoying his haircut





It was a little shocking to realize that not that long ago Bali was largely free from Western influence and ruled by kings from palaces such as this one.  After Klungkung we headed to Candidasa for lunch.

Photo Credit:  Gran took most of the photos.

1 comment:

  1. So pleased you caught the gamelan maker on video! Couldn't capture his way of refining the instrument with just a still camera: striking the brass, listening to the resonance, breathing into the bamboo, striking and listening again, then adjusting length with a hand saw while gripping the bamboo pipe with his foot.

    And though it's still March 3rd here, where you are it's time to wish Nat Happy Birthday!! Love from Gran and Papa Joe

    ReplyDelete